Cuzco, Peru

The nightmarish bus ride did have one silver lining: Alfonso Medina, the stout, amiable man who sat next to me for 24 hours, followed in David´s footsteps and gave me a warm, generous introduction to his country.

Alfonso, a mechanic in Lima, was in Cuzco for the weekend to visit his girlfriend. I, playing the part of the eager, awed, and slightly naive tourist, became his second charge. From the bus station, he took a safe taxi with me to my hostel. That same evening we met up and went to the non-tourist section of Cuzco for a rock concert. Mars de Copa, I must say, is a pretty baller rock band.

The next morning, we headed to the main plaza in San Sebastian, a neighboring town, to catch the Sunday market and try traditional Cusqueña dishes at Restaurante El Juglar. My wake-up was a cup of Ceviche de Criadillas, raw bull´s testicles with lime and corn nuts. My main dish was cuy, guinea pig with arroz and papas amarillas. I was the lone tourist.

It was a terrific opportunity experience the real Peru and to recover my Espanglish. Ah, the kindness of strangers.